por Trudi Angell
It was almost 50 years ago when I became a sea kayaker. Though I had done some hiking, backpacking, and horse riding in my teens in California, I had not been out on the open water before. So how did I end up in México, on a remote beach, with a cluster of date palm trees and a dozen other young people from 16 years old to late 20s? It’s a fun story.
Flipping through a catalog of courses from the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) back in the winter of 1975, none of the snow-camping courses (brrr!) or rock climbing courses (ugh, heavy packs) piqued my interest. But when I got to the page that had a photo of warm, sunny beaches with snorkeling, kayaking, and sailing offered as a 12-day outdoor learning experience, I signed right up. Back then, it was $350 dollars for the 12-day course, so I flew to San Diego and met a girl who was also going on the trip. The next day, her dad drove us to Tijuana to catch a direct flight to somewhere in Baja. The town we were headed to had a funny name, something about mules, maybe, but I had studied Spanish in junior high, high school, and a couple of college classes. I figured I could probably get along okay. Wrong.
As LouAnne and I flew over Scammon’s lagoon, we could see the shadowy forms of whales below in the enclosed bay…then the almost-empty 40-passenger twin-engine plane landed on a dirt strip in the middle of a cactus-covered desert, and the “airport” was a little palm thatch shed with a couple of taxis hoping for someone to disembark. I was glad we were traveling together as we grabbed our bags and hopped into one of the taxis. Here is where my Spanish language would come in handy. The driver asked, “Adónde van?”. “Al Hotel Serenidad, por favor.” And off we went.
Longer story short, LouAnne, the other dozen students, and I became great friends. Something about the outdoors, camping, minimalist lifestyle, and the camaraderie of living together for a couple of weeks in the wilderness and paddling down the coast with our food and gear tucked into the crannies of a sea-worthy kayak, like a floating backpack, well, it was certainly a turning point. There must have been something in the synchronicity of budding Spanish language skills blended with the amazing teachers we had on our NOLS Baja course, the gorgeous coastline, and the simplicity of living day to day in our environment like the local fishermen and farmers in México. Now, 48 years later, the stars overhead, the swish of the sea, and the trails that lead into the desert are truly a comforting home.
Trudi Angell has been a pioneer of adventure travel in Baja California Sur, México since 1983. Leaving a wake of 30 years of sea kayaking, plus exploring the peninsula on mules to ranches and rock art sites. She has ridden mules through Baja from top to bottom, twice, and is planning another 1000-mile mule-pack trip for 2024. She is celebrating 20 years of having dual citizenship. She produced a documentary about mule riding on El Camino Real in Baja, and her Spanish is now really good!